Ras Al Hanout
Without key spices, it would be very hard to get the authentic taste of Middle Easte or North African foods. There are spices specific to certain dishes and then there are general ones that are used for many things.
Today, I’d like to talk about a great spice called Ras Al Hanout, which is a Morrocan “baharat” or spice blend.
My first venture into this blend took me to countless Middle Eastern stores. I knew only that a good spice blend would use rose petals. I wanted it so that I could make a Bastilla. Nobody had it.
Then one day, I was asking a clerk in yet one more shop who said, “Go talk to that man over there. He is a chef and he’ll help you find it.” So off I went. He said it couldn’t be found because people make it. Would I like him to blend something like it from the stores bulk spice section? Of course!
He added a bit of this and a bit of that. I remember only the turmeric. Then he handed me the tub and said, “Make sure you add rose petals or rose water when you are ready to cook. It wouldn’t be complete without that.”
Since then, I’ve been looking around for the recipes for the most authentic Ras Al Hanout. I have asked my Moroccan friends and each one had a different version and each one says, “This is the best one!” They all agree that the meaning of the name means “Head of the shop” as in “top shelf” for those of you who drink spirits. Is it that good. Oh yes!
So off to do research. From “The African Cookbook” by Jessica Harris, I find that the following list are all possiblities:
cardamon, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, chilis, ginger, rose petals, allspice, black pepper, lavender blossoms, turmeric, Spanish fly, belladona, cufa nuts, monks pepper, long pepper, cubeb and grains of paradise. Take your pick from this by no means exhaustive list.
I am gearing towards my own blend.
Black pepper, cinnamon, rose petals, lavender blossoms, ginger, cloves, turmeric. That is what I have so far. I might add the allspice and just maybe a tad of nutmeg which my Moroccan friend Malika encourages because it causes good feelings to those who eat it (in small quantity) and tells me that nutmeg is always added to dishes served at Moroccan weddings to help the guests enjoy themselves (remember Muslims do not touch alcohol).
Within the next few days, I’m going to try making Bastilla again. I intend on gathering my spices and grinding them on my own. Traditional Bastilla is a pigeon pie using phyllo dough in which the pigeon (use cornish hens in the west) and a sauce are layered. I’m going to attempt it with Quorn brand faux chicken for a change.
Just as soon as I take stock of my pantry, I’ll be back with the ingredients and the process.
January 25, 2010 at 11:24 pm
Is the good time effect of nutmeg to do with it being a natural form of ecstasy? Vague memories of chemistry returning here.
According to Claudia Roden “Grocers in North Africa stake their reputation on a ‘house blend’ which according to folklore may contain up to a hundred aromatics but in reality contains about twelve”. She lists generally used ingredients as cinnamon bark, whole nutmeg, dried rose buds, pieces of dried ginger, cloves, cubebs and different peppers, with golden green Spanish fly sometimes added.
January 26, 2010 at 11:58 am
Hi Toria
Very interesting observation:) I checked out wikipedia and found this.
link
Hmm. MalcomX and William Burroughs? Very interesting.
I would like to know more about Claudia Roden when you have time. Sounds really cool. I keep wondering about Spanish Fly. It was at one time purported to be a date rape “drug”. I found it in my source too:)
January 26, 2010 at 6:49 pm
Oops, sorry. Claudia Roden is the author of my favouritebmiddle eastern cookbook (A New Book of Middle Eastern Food). According to the blurb inside, she was born & raised in Cairo, moved to Paris & later London to study, started as a painter but got drawn to food “partly through a desire to evoke a lost heritage – one of the pleasures of a happy life in Egypt”. It’s a great book, she writes about the background of dishes, describes the food in detail, and sprinkles these little snippets of folklore & stories throughout it.
January 27, 2010 at 1:33 pm
Sounds wonderful! I’ll keep an eye out for the book. Her name sounds familiar but you may have mentioned her to me before.
February 26, 2010 at 5:20 pm
Please pass the Spanish Fly…. Is this the Valentine’s Day version?
February 26, 2010 at 6:39 pm
No Spanish fly to be found in the U.S (or Morroco it looks like, banned there nowadays), but I actually thought it was just a name of a plant until I did some research and found out it was a living being, so yes, I’ll pass on it.
There are a lot of versions of this dish, but I think you noticed that many of the spiced and herbs have an aphrodisiac nature to them. LOL!
I have had no time to spend in the kitchen on this so far, but soon, I promise I’ll get back to it. Vegan version as I said before. Only problem is the eggs in the traditional recipes. Not sure how to replace it in the sauce. Flax maybe?